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5 posts tagged with "Home & Green"

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From Pie to Poop

· 8 min read
Nik
Site Owner

The people I like most share two things in common:  First, they have open minds.  Second, while they appear normal, they are in at least one aspect of their lives, utterly bat shit crazy.

To be fair, I’ve got my own quiver of crazy, here’s one of my favorite arrows to draw from it:

I shit in a bucket and I have for 10 years.

Let me go through the thoughts in your head (yeah, I’ve had this convo before.)

********

That’s disgusting!

Why?

Gross!

Wait a second…what do you do with the shit?  Oh my God!

*********

Let me set the stage for you.  I own a house with a flush toilet that works, my wife (and most guests) use that toilet.  I live within city limits on a 3,000 sq ft lot and have neighbors on 3 sides.  I’m not way out back of beyond, and we’re connected to the city sewer not a septic tank. There is no reason (based on your flawed understanding of poop management) that I should shit in a bucket.

There’s no easy way to slide into this conversation.  Shit is just too powerful a concept for someone to immediately nod their head and understand that what they’ve been doing their whole life is complete madness.

Let’s just start with a few truths that you may not have considered:

First, the fact that shit seems toxic and disgusting.  That’s incorrect.  Your poop was just IN you.  YOU created it.  If anything is toxic or disgusting, it’s because there’s a problem in YOU.  Shit is not a food, you don’t have to immediately eat it or build with it or make shit castles in the sand.  In fact, you don’t have to touch it.  Shit is a resource, not a problem. You just have to learn how to use it.

Second, why does it make sense for you to shit in drinking water?  Yes, drinking water.  That’s what’s in your toilet.  A lot of time and energy went into getting that water drinkable, and you just shit in it.

Third, after buying the drinking water and shitting in it (adding value), you send it back!  What kind of American does that?  That’s like buying coffee in a paper cup then pouring it into a nice ceramic mug and handing it back to the barista to sell to someone else.  WTF?

You have to understand that your poop is just a step in an endless cycle.  If you think for one second that the food you are eating was made in a cute little vacuum without fertilizer, water, earth, or animals, well, you’re just flat out wrong.

When you try and distort or break a natural cycle you end up with much bigger problems than the simple act of distortion.

You waste thousands of gallons of drinking water.  You increase the taxes you have to pay because every time you flush you affirm your part of the agreement that we should shit in our drinking water and then manage it.  Not cheap.  And dumb.  Is that really you?  A tax loving and profligate idiot?  Wait, we just had a very close election.  Never mind.

Like I said at the beginning, I’ve been shitting in a bucket at my house for 10 years.  I’ve been using that shit (along with all our kitchen scraps) to make compost.  I’ve used the compost to grow fruits and vegetables. I’ve freely fed anyone who came by with peaches, berries, figs, pomegranates, and veggies grown with that compost. All the produce grown on our little plot is super healthy and delicious.  I’ve had zero complaints about taste, health, or any kind of follow-on sickness.

In fact, our house is well known in our neighborhood for having the healthiest and tastiest garden around, and we are constantly asked how we do it.

It’s not magic, it’s a simple system, and if you followed it you’d be happier, healthier, and wealthier.  But you’d be considered weird, and most folks place fitting in over happiness, health, and wealth.  The odds of you doing the right thing are heavily against you.

Luckily for me, when it comes to fitting in, I also have a field of fucks I grow.  Cast ye thine eyes upon it and thou shalt see that (unlike my garden) it is barren.

Ok, saving water and money isn’t enough for you?  How does living in a war zone sound?

Humans fight wars for resources.  Right now we’re finishing up fighting for oil, and if you thought the oil wars were bad, wait until we’re fighting over water.

Those cute little bumper stickers (on the backs of oil guzzling cars) that say “No war for oil”?

There won’t be any of that when your family is dying of thirst.  You won’t have time for hypocrisy, you’ll be too busy curb stomping your neighbor for watering their grass.  Trust me, you’ll fight.

You can ride your bike if gas gets expensive enough, but there’s no alternative when you don’t have water, not at any price less than blood.  I’d prefer to contribute as little as possible to starting World War III, especially if the alternative is as easy as buying a three dollar bucket and spending a day building a toilet stand and two compost piles.

Common Questions:

Q: “Did you tell your neighbors that you just fed them a poop-berry?”

A: No, I didn’t.  In the same spirit that the current source you’re getting your fruits and veggies doesn’t tell you that they sprayed the food you’re eating with insecticides, grew it with fertilizer made from oil, harvested it from massive tractors that destroyed habitat and in the process mixed up insects, animal turds, and small animals with your “organic” tomatoes, then washed them off with a chemical/water spray you wouldn’t drink and wrapped them in plastic that you throw away where it will last a few thousand years in a giant diaper, aka a landfill.

I don’t feel like rubbing it in my neighbor’s face that they just made the best possible ecological choice completely by accident, and if they knew about the right choice they probably wouldn’t have made it.  I tend to try and protect people from their own ignorance and stupidity, even if it means temporarily withholding the truth.

Q: “Doesn’t it stink?  I mean, you’re shitting in a bucket!”

A: Shit stinks, that’s the hard fact.  You flush it down a toilet (we’ve talked about the insanity of this already.)  I cover it with coffee chaff, which is a waste product that comes from roasting coffee.  My toilet actually smells more like fresh coffee than poop.  I have neighbors who are just 10’ away from my toilet.  It was 8 years (YEARS!) before they built a deck and were able to look over my fence and realize (surprise!) they now had an excellent view into my outdoor bathroom. Not only that, they quickly realized that I squat on the toilet, native style, so we had a talk about that too.  I’ll save squatting for another article.

Back to smell management:  When I dump the bucket into the compost pile, I cover it with about a foot of dry straw.  No, the smell doesn’t get out.

Q: “Doesn’t it stink when you spread it out on your garden?  I’ve smelled horse manure compost before, and that stinks!”

A: By the time I actually use the compost (formerly shit and kitchen scraps and straw), it’s been resting in the compost pile undisturbed for at least 6 months, and sometimes a year.  It is compost, not shit, and smells like fresh healthy growing material for plants.

Q: “Do you have to turn your compost pile?”

A: No.  We compost aerobically, not anaerobically.  We do this by placing lots of layers of straw in our compost, which creates interstitial spaces that promote aerobic digestion.  Ask any 14 year old what interstitial means, it’ll give you a good indication of whether or not they’re getting reasonable schooling.

Because of all these little air pockets throughout the pile, we don’t have to turn it.  We just add a layer of shit ’n scraps, then a layer of straw.  The worms and bacteria cruise slowly upwards through the pile and convert our waste stream into high grade top quality fertilizer.

Q: “Isn’t it dangerous?  I mean, shit is really scary stuff full of bacteria and toxins!”

A: Stop it.  Seriously.  It just came out of you!  If there’s anything harmful to you in it, it would have killed you already.

Q: Ok, ok, what about when you’re sick, or have food poisoning?  Aren’t you creating a compost pile full of listeria ready to turn humanity into constantly flowing shit spigots?

A: No.  Within the active part of the pile there are “thermophilic” bacteria.  They come from your healthy gut, and as their name suggests they LOVE heat.  In fact, they make things so hot that everything else around them can’t take the heat (including all those bad bacteria you just fire-hosed out your ass), and the bad bacteria are burned to death.  It’s pretty awesome.

Q: Ok Nik, my mind is opening up just a little bit to this.  Where can I read more (so I can prove you wrong and convince you to shit in drinking water again)?

A: The bible on this is The Humanure Handbook, by Joe Jenkins.  Buy it, read it, live by it.  The dude is awesome.

Water Collection

· 2 min read
Nik
Site Owner

****, For greywater you can't go wrong with Art Ludwig's "Create an Oasis Out of Greywater".  I used it for my system and it was more than enough info. For rainwater check out  "Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond" by Brad Lancaster, it's a good overview. If you're going to build a cistern you could look at Volumes 2 and 3 of the Rainwater Harvesting book, but I just bought Art Ludwig's "Water Storage" and that seems to be enough. All told that's about $50-60 on Amazon and it's all the info you'll ever need to build any system you want. Shop around for tanks if you buy one, you can find stuff super cheap if you're patient. The systems are simple and bombproof, the main thing being to spend plenty of time on design.  Think about maintenance.  One thing I'll do with my next greywater hook up (from laundry to front yard) is to install a Jandy 3 way pool valve instead of a 3 way PVC valve.  The Jandy is supposed to be super simple to turn instead of the 3 way PVC that I had to build a special wooden jig to turn it because it's so stiff. The valves are installed so I can switch easily between sending greywater to my garden and sending greywater to the city/septic.  If you're a total hippie and never use any bleach or other nasty chemicals you'll be fine, otherwise install it. As far as soap, Art makes a big deal about bio-compatible suds; I've just used normal soap (Dr. Bronner's or some other semi-natural stuff) and my plants LOVE it. I didn't pay attention to any codes or try to get any permits.  Not sure what the situation is out there but from my limited experience the main thing that the gov't wants out of you is money, and they don't trade you anything for it; no expertise, no knowledge, nada. Bottom line:  This shit is simple to do, just take your time and think it out. If you have any questions feel free to call or email. Cheers, NFH

The New In My House

· 5 min read
Nik
Site Owner

The New In My House... Philosophy of Architecture (from Let My People Go Surfing, Y Chouinard 1. Don't build a new building unless it's absolutely necessary.  The most responsible thing to do is to buy used buildings, construction materials, and furniture. 2. Try to save old or historic buildings from being torn down.  Any structural changes should honor the historical integrity of the building.  We rectify misguided "improvements" made by previous tenants and strip way fake modern facades, ending up we hope with a building that is a "gift to the neighborhood." 3. If you can't be retro, build quality.  The aesthetic life expectancy of the building should be as long as the physical material's life span. 4. Use recycled, and recyclable, materials like steel girders, studs, re-milled wood, and straw bales.  Install fixtures from waste materials like pressed sunflower hulls and agricultural waste. 5. Anything that is built should be repairable and easily maintained. 6. Buildings should be constructed to last as long as possible, even if this initially involves a higher price. 7. Each [house] must be unique.  The heroes, sports, history, and natural features of each area should be reflected and honored. My Philosophy: Unconditional love for individual humans I meet, a deep and loving connection for the natural world; a curiosity about how things work, a deep rooted intent to help others reach their potential; a healthy skepticism toward authority; a love of nature and physical work, a love for difficult, human-powered sports that require practice and mastery; a disdain for motorized sports like snowmobiling or jet skiing; a respect for real adventure (defined best as a journey from which you may not come back alive--and certainly not as the same person); a taste for real adventure; and a belief that less is more (in design and in consumption) Building envelope -rammed earth -high efficiency windows -porch for seating and eating on in summer, drying clothes and indoor/outdoor space Roof -green roof -solar panels -rainwater catchment -overhanging for outdoor dry spaces Electrical -wired for max efficiency, short runs, large gauge -solar power -wind power -natural lighting as much as possible -enough power to weld -hydrogen fuel cell combined with solar/wind -cogen (CHP) Heating & Cooling -geothermal heat pump -passive as much as possible -deciduous trees to the south, evergreens to the north -hydronic floor heating -proper house alignment to catch sun and wind -use of thermal mass and insulation is very important and wanted Entryway -plenty of places for shoes -solar powered shoe heater -plenty of places to hang wet/outdoor clothes -mittens -hats -coats -socks -etc. -airlocked from house -benches to sit and change on -place for dog stuff (leashes, balls, toys, tugs, etc) -place for snowshoes and xc skis -places for gear -nice and sunny for drying gear -ventilation in summer The kitchen -good view -solar cooking oven in south wall -eastern views -4 burner commercial style stove with griddle -1 big sink (not side-by-side), plumbed for planter -terra tile floor, heated -sunpipe -sunfrost fridge/freezer, SMALL -passive fridge/cold box/pantry in north wall -hydronic heated floors -easy to clean drain that is virtually uncloggable, and leads to a small indoor herb/plant garden -indoor/outdoor kitchen Bathroom -plumbed for greywater, short runs to plants/trees -hydronic heated floors -heated towel rack -natural ventilation -sunpipe -custom concrete counter top -towel storage in bathroom -sunpipe -separated toilet and bath -outdoor composting throne with amazing view Living room/great room/connected to kitchen -framed views (not just one big sheet of glass) -cork floors -soapstone fireplace in center of house w/heated benches Bedrooms (for sleeping, dressing, and fucking, not for showing off) -plenty of storage for clothes, shoes, belts, hats, etc. -large dressing closets, small rooms Nook -a place for reading and being by myself, quiet, removed from hustle and bustle -aerie -small, wooden floor -sleeping area for Birdie -sunlit, not mega sunny -bookshelves -privacy with a view and ventilation -comfortable couch, smooth and clean lines, leather -outdoor space/access, for meditation Working -Nik and Lee each have their own space -natural and artificial lighting -book shelf near -good storage & organization -private with a view Water/Plumbing -plumbed for max efficiency: short runs, tankless water heaters, recirc system if optimal -hooked in to heating (in-floor heating) -rainwater catchment -greywater -composting toilets -large cisterns Yard/Garden -xeriscaping with greywater fruit trees and garden -peaceful and private -grill -fireplace -hot tub? -sunny and shady -lots of greenery -dog friendly -clean and easy to clean Garage -passive solar -plenty of outlets -carport & workshop -blacksmith -woodshop -gear spaces -large efficient north wall freezer for meat Dogs: -water bowl in gravel path leading to tree -water bowl directly under faucet, out of the sun -some kind of pad/transition area between outside and in where they knock dirt/mud off their paws -spaces for them to be washed outside, with attendant brushes/shampoo etc -leash/collar hooks for hanging and easy access Overall: SMALL, natural, flowing, healing, rejuvenating, space, protection, warm, sunny, clean, open, healthy, welcome Books: -The Engineered House

re. greywater

· 2 min read
Nik
Site Owner

***, Greywater took about 3 days + prior thinking and planning time (for me that took about 2 years to figure out what I wanted and how to do it.) 1 day to gather materials, do set up and layout. 2 days to trench, lay pipe, and function check. Lots of good learning, but it boils down to a few simple lessons: 1. Water flows downhill. 2. Buying material and doing it yourself is the cheapest way to do the best job. 3. Thinking about doing it takes much longer than doing it, so it's worth it to think for a long time. 3. Reading about this was good for inspiration, but learning by doing is the one of the best ways I can pick up a skill, and it opens lots of other creative doors for me:  Plumbing the back yard for an outdoor shower, wanting to learn more about plumbing and the high pressure side of it, being stoked to work with my hands on other projects like wiring a new room, and just in general more self-confidence in my trades work. Brings to mind a great Aristotle quote I saw in Shop Class as Soul Craft: "Lack of experience diminishes our power of taking a comprehensive view of the admitted facts.  Hence those who dwell in intimate association with nature and its phenomena are more able to lay down principles such as to admit of a wide and coherent development; while those whom devotion to abstract discussions has rendered unobservant of facts are too ready to dogmatize on the basis of a few observations." NFH

thanks

· 6 min read
Nik
Site Owner

****, Lee and I just sat down and enjoyed our first meal of Nik-shot Montana venison; grilled backstrap and salad.  ****, it was delicious.  I'd like to thank you for helping me create this meal, for making the hunting experience awesome in the truest sense of that word.  I'd like to get more flowery but I don't think it appropriate or really necessary to spice up a heartfelt thanks.  Thank you. I've looked around for the plans I drew up when I got back from the last trip but haven't found them.  I'm beginning to think I confused those with my current house remodel plans...but I did make some notes on the way home about the kind of house I'd like to build. Straw bale for insulation and rammed earth for thermal mass.  Both are local materials, both appropriate to the climate, and both help give the house the wall-thickness and solidity I like in my architecture.  I like open beams in the ceiling/roof, and I'd see how much scavenging/salvaging I could do to get good, high quality used materials (beams, windows, doors, floors, fixtures etc.)  Loved your pull up bar between beams, even if I couldn't reach it. As far as design, it always seems so site dependent.  I'd look for a site with good southerly views of mountains and some bottom land, with a line of willows showing where the water flows and the deer live.  Near a road but out of site and blocked by geographical features. After only a few days of winter living I was reminded of how important the interface between indoors and outdoors is in a cold and wet climate.  I'd have a long entry way (10-25') with plenty of southern exposure, maybe take the green house idea from earth ships and place it so the entry way is the heater for the house during winter. In the entryway I'd put in a specific number of boxes (one for each permanent resident plus two more) for shoes/boots etc as well as plenty of hooks and more boxes or shelves for jackets, hats, and hand coverings.  I've developed the idea for a solar boot dryer/heater, so I'd put one of those in each "box". Because I've got dogs and I'm into them, I'd plan for an airlock double dog door with mats and body brushes for the dogs on the way in.  I like to give my dogs free reign, so it's only appropriate that I make sure they're not a pest about it. An open floor plan has always been a favorite of mine, but along with solar hot water, solar panels, rainwater catchment/storage and general energy/water efficiency I just take all that as a given; no need to go over the basics more than a few times. Some key points: -run plumbing so there are no joints in the walls, so there's the shortest run possible between heater and faucet, and insulate all lines.  Make it so access is very easy (maintenance room on the north side seems the best way to do this.  Easy access and free insulation.) -I like the industrial look of exposed utilities, it also makes working on them easier. -radiant heat floors (for constant heat so fixtures don't freeze during away time.) -I like a soft floor, but every time I've lived with carpet it just gets fucking disgusting after a while.  I'd go with throw rugs, pillows, etc. for easy cleaning and comfortable living. -wood stove for fast and pleasant heat, ideally a soapstone heater. -bathrooms should be well ventilated, warm, and have plenty of daylight, as well as being private parts of the house. -I don't like guests to stay more than a week, so I'd keep a pretty open arrangement as far as their living/sleeping quarters.  Maybe a shoji screen at the max, although I'd probably invest in a good natural mattress (latex or foam rubber, whatever) so they get a great nights sleep.  That is not at all a reflection on your guest sleeping arrangement, I slept like a baby at your place.  I just really like the idea of giving guests the highest quality quarters that are obviously (in a way that says "move on" after a few days) not permanent.  Along with that idea there needs to be a private place where one can get away from everyone else.  Usually the bedroom works for this, although I've read about specially designed reading nooks protected by a heavy curtain that sound interesting. -the living space itself does not need to be large; the kitchen and living/dining/whatever room don't need to be more than 400 sq ft. -All that "living" space should be really functional; stove, countertop, table, a "desking" space or two (depending on how many folks will live there, and enough electrical outlets to plug in all the bits and bobs of modern day life. -living areas well lit with as much daylight as possible while staying within the confines of passive heating/cooling -plenty of storage space (cubbies or cabinets under stairs, as many places to put things in as you'd find in a small boat.  Out of sight but well organized, plenty of book shelves. -get the fridge and freezer up against the north wall, running the coils outside to take advantage of outdoor "coolth."  Good design on the sunfrost.com site. -Total bed/living/bath area shouldn't need to be more than 900 sq ft.  It's the gear and the workshop that really need the space. -give gear it's designated place, with room enough to plan outings, lay out clothes and equipment, drip dry areas, and specific cubby holes for "families" of gear (i.e. hunting, skiing, riding, whatever.)  The gear room should be fully a part of the home climate control, warm enough to change clothes in, with an easy drain floor system for wet boots/rain jackets etc.  I'd put the laundry in here if I could, making sure to follow my plumbing rules (above) and if necessary install an additional tankless water heater for it. -a workshop is essential.  This should be large enough to work on "winter" projects, with passive and renewable powered heating/cooling an integral part of design.  I think 800 sq ft is plenty (includes indoor and covered outdoor)   Roughly equal indoor and covered outdoor space.  Woodshop, metal work, mechanic stuff...all important parts of a good shop.  The shop roof should be dedicated to the usual rainwater catchment and solar energy production, and should ideally be powered by a combination of wind/solar and hydro energy, backed up by a generator and battery bank. -if I could get away with it I'd put up at least a covered area for vehicles, if I had space and I could hide it well I'd put in a small garage to allow me to keep up my vehicles for much longer. That's all for now, until I find a site I don't know how much more detail I could get into and not be a total daydream waste of time. Great to see you, looking forward to our next meeting. Take care, NFH